Hot or Not Beauty

Most of the time I rave and rave but there are those times when a good rant becomes a sort of public service.
Sometimes there are those products that we really want to love, because it looks cool or you just want to think that it will deliver all those things they say it does.

Although I control my shopping impulses a lot better, sometimes I succumb to them and well sometimes it works, while sometimes it doesn’t.

My daily makeup look is just to look as natural as possible and I’m constantly on the look out for stuff that makes me look good BUT doesn’t make look made up or like a wax figure, we guys need texture in our skin more than women otherwise we look… weird.

Although my Holy Grail pressed powers is MAC’s Pressed Blot Powder, during the harsher winter months the powder just takes longer to set and it’s not that convenient to apply at work because even if it applied sheerly, I will have a sort of powdered nose for the next 30 minutes or so.

Check this older post out (if you haven’t) for my thoughts on pressed powders, if you still haven’t.

With all that in mind, I thought that it was time to give Smashbox’s Anti-Shine Compact a try. I mean, why shouldn’t I? The compact was small and super convenient with a small mirror that would allow me to touch up in 10 seconds in the bathroom and return with a matte complexion and no powdery residue. Plus it also said that it contained “tea tree oil to help combat breakouts, and vitamin E to help repair skin damage”, so I was like “YES! MARRY ME!”. So I dropped by the nearest Sephora and bought it.

That afternoon, the oily shine struck, but I was ready for it! So I softly patted the product on my forehead and nose careful not to swipe and ruin my makeup, after all this balm type product isn’t supposed to apply like a powder. And it was miraculous, my skin was matte and no one was the wiser.

The next morning, when I woke up my skin texture was odd, I seemed to develop some bumps and it looked irritated. Well, I have been under a lot of stress lately and didn’t give it much thought and decided to keep using my new found friend, until he stabbed me in the back.

To make a long story short, my forehead and nose broke out (precisely were I had been applying it) and it took me almost three weeks and lots of TLC and pampering to normalize the texture and make the blemishes disappear (I did end up making a new friend in the process) and the pretty cool Smashbox compact is on top of my pile of stupid purchases. Oddly enough for the following weeks I had to use a bit of more concealer while I was going for a natural flawless look, even I loved the irony on this one.

Do yourselves a favor, oily skin? Acne-prone? Sensitive? Just steer away from this compact and wear something else to blot away the oil because sometimes when it looks too good to be true, you should rethink it over and over again.

Almost all great cosmetic brands have specially created cosmetic lines that are specific to the Asian Market, like Lancome’s Blanc Expert, Shiseido with Lucent or Superieure, Helena Rubinstein, MAC with their whitening line recently brought to the West as Lightful, Clinique also has a specific whitening line called Derma-White and has paved its way to the Western market just to name a few.

Around the time of Lightful’s release some became infuriated viewing it as just another euphemism for racism accusing the cosmetics company of being racist feeling that the product line was intended to make ethnic darker skin white, which is completely far from the truth.

So what are whitening products and what are they aimed at?

Mostly, what these products do is block or reduce melanin production by inhibiting the production of tyrosinase and breaking down the production of melanin, thus it doesn’t bleach the skin like many would think, but it just stops the skin from producing the substance that darkens the skin’s pigmentation.

Amongst the chemicals used in these products the more recurrent are hydroquinone (used topically), other well known alternatives to hydroquinone (banned in France for fear of cancer risk) are Vitamin C and Alpha Hydroxy acids (such as lactic and glycolic acids) and are present in many of today’s cosmetics either because they’re high in anti-oxidants (Vitamin C) or are chemical exfoliants that help shed older layers of skin that usually can cause blockage and blemishes.

Next, misconceptions and applications of today’s whitening cosmetics, if you chose to use them.

Although we’re quite far from the times where aristocracy would use white lead to create a ghostly white complexion, such products not only would cause lead poisoning also had arsenic in their complexion.

One of the most iconic would probably be Queen Elizabeth I, but white complexion was also incredibly popular in the court of Fashion Queen Marie Antoinette.

It was common belief that whiter complexions were a sign of nobility, mostly it meant that you just didn’t have to work outside in the sun. Also, it was believed that a paler complexion would blur wrinkles and signs of aging far easily, one of the reasons why Elizabeth I’s well known white lead look was called “The Mask of Youth”.

However in the West, times have changed and beaches are filled with Sun God worshipers for that ideal bronze gleam on their skin that creates an all out healthy glow. Asian women on the other hand try their hardest to achieve a porcelain tone to their skin.

The basic belief was the same, paler complexions were a sign of being noble and protected from the sun’s rays and to this day geisha wear white foundation products to become beauty at its most iconic.

So what do today’s cosmetics offer and what can they truly accomplish?

To be continued.

I may be a snob when it comes to beauty producuts, but I also recognize theres a time to splurge and a time to skimp. You don’t always need a $25 mascara to do the job, or a $65 cleanser to take your makeup off. With that said, I’m as much a shop-a-holic at my friendly neighborhood drugstore as I am at Sephora or Nordstrom.

These are my favorite finds:

1. Mascara — I’ve worn them all- Chanel, Lancome, Bourjois, Blinc, Kevin Aucoin, I could go on and on. I love mascara. I love big huge eyelashes that are slightly on the side of trashy. Loreal Voluminous Mascara gives me all the oomph of a Dior Show mascara without the price tag. Try the newest black, Carbon. Its blacker than black. Walgreens frequently has a buy one get one free, and that’s when I stock up. $6.99

2. Makeup Cleansing Wipes – I travel for work, and there are all stiff controls as to how much liquid you can carry on board airplanes. I love Neutrogena Make-Up Remover Cleansing Towelettes. They remove even the most stubborn makeup. $6.49

3. Scrub– I have written about my exfoliating addiction. I love a good scrub. St Ives Swiss Formula Medicated Apricot Scrub with Salicylic Acid is an excellent scrub. Its great for acne prone skin and as an anti-aging exfoliant as well. $3.99

4. Facial Cleansing Pads – When I’m not on the road, I use Perfection Facial Cleansing Pads for cleansing my skin and removing makeup. They are 100% cotton, made in France and lint free. Much bigger than a cotton round and they save getting makeup on your wash cloths! $2.99 for 85.

5. False Eyelashes – I use plenty of these in my work and need to replenish my kit often. I could go to MAC and splurge, but why when I can get them for $3.49 a pair in assorted styles. Andrea is the brand and they work just as well as the big dog brands.

6. Body Lotion – Keri Age Defy & Protect Moisture Therapy. This body lotion contains an SPF 15 plus alpha hydroxy acids. So you get sun protection and anti-aging benefits in one. Helps to even skin tone and tame those awful bumps on the backs of arms and thighs. Keeps feet smooth and sandal weather perfect. $7.19 for 15 oz. Sure beats $40 and up for treatment lotions that don’t work half as well.

7. Hair Gel – I really can’t understand spending an arm and a leg on hair gel. I get the cheapest stuff on the shelf. I love Citre Shine. It’s not too hard and doesn’t flake. Around $3 for a 20 oz bottle.

8. Overall makeup brand – Physicians Forumla. This line has it all. From fabulous bronzers to awesome eye shadow quads that I love. Prices are reasonable and the ingredients are quality. They have innovative products that work like CoverToxTen50â„¢ Wrinkle Therapy Concealer

10 minutes = Over 50% reduction in appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
10 hours = Up to 52% visible dark circle reduction.
10 days = 77% visible dark circle reduction.

So that’s it. The best of my drugstore basket. Of course there is more, but my lips are sealed.

Bargain beauty buys — Hot!

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I’m an exfoliating junkie. I love to scrub. My day just isn’t complete with out scrubbing my skin raw with the latest and greatest on the exfoliation market. I’m expert on these skin care products. Not only am I a self absorbed makeup artist, but a licensed aesthetician as well. So that means that I know a thing or two about good skin care products. Now, not everyone should take the liberty to scrub until they feel the burn like I do. Really, the less is more philosphy is true here. I just don’t practice what I preach.

This is what you should know about exfoliators:
They come in manual and chemical forms. Manual exfoliators are scrubs — grains, granules, crushed seeds, polyethelyne balls and so on. Chemicals exfoliants are commonly alpha hydroxy or beta hydroxy acids, enzymes and retinols. There are a plethora of professional exfoliators which we will not get into at this time. I love, love, love AHA’s. I have been known to do a vigorous scrub and then a professional strength chemical exfoliant right after. Sure, I get red and it burns like the dickens, but the next day my skin looks like I just had a blissful evening…

Why you should scrub:
1. It removes dead skin cells.
2. It helps moisturizer penetrate the skin.
3. It’s an anti-ager for the skin, can diminish fine lines
4. Help give skin a glow

Scrubs to avoid:
Anything with big uneven particles. In particular the good ole crushed apricot seed or walnut seed. Forget all that harsh stuff. Now, there are scrubs that use a powder form or a very small particle form of those ingredients and they are perfectly fine. Always try to sample the product before you buy it. Run the scrub through your fingers. Does it feel rough? Don’t use it. The granules should be smooth and even.
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Sales of over the counter acne preparations exceed $100 million annually. Hundreds of millions more are spent on prescription treatments. Acne is a non life threatening disease, but nonetheless a disease that takes a psychological toll on it’s victims. 85% of the population between 12 and 25 are plagued with mild to moderate acne. With over 350,000 US residents seeking professional treatment for acne, it’s no wonder it’s turned into an infomercial driven business.

What causes acne?
In brief:
1. Hormones
2. P Acnes Bacteria
3. Excess Sebum (oil) production
4. Hyperkeratinization (build up of dead skin)

For more information about acne click here.

Other causes can be anabolic steroid use and medications. While it’s difficult to control hormones (certain birth control pills seem to help some women). So in short to for relief of acne the following must happen:

1. Kill Bacteria
2. Control Oil production
3. Control Inflammation
4. Exfoliate dead skin cells
Some brands such as Peter Thomas Roth rely on ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide, glycolic acid and salicylic acid to clear skin. Others like Naturopathica rely on botanicals for their healing powers. Sample skin care regimens:

Nautropathica:
Cleanse: Aloe Cleansing Gel
Tone: Lavender Hydrolat
Hydrate: Protective Moisture Cream (oil-free)
Spot Treatment: Moss Extract Blemish Remover
Lighten Acne Scars: Botanical Skin Brightener
Weekly Mask: Pore Refining Clay Mask

Peter Thomas Roth:
Cleanse: Medicated BPO 5% Acne Wash or for Beta Hydroxy 2% Acne Wash for extremely oily skin
Tone: Glycolic Acid Clarifying Tonic
Treat: AHA/BHA Acne Clearing Gel or for more serious breakouts 10% BPO with sulfur
Weekly Mask: Sulfur Cooling Mask

Tip: For a serious eruption that you need to deflate overnight, try this: Ice pimple for 5 minutes. Apply spot treatment. Cover spot treatment with a thick layer of mask. Leave on overnight. You should see a marked difference in your zit come morning!

skincare, acne, murad, proactive, peter thomas roth, naturopathica, natural acne solutions, zits, pimples, help for pimples, beauty

Sales of over the counter acne preparations exceed $100 million annually. Hundreds of millions more are spent on prescription treatments. Acne is a non-life-threatening disease, but nonetheless a disease that takes a psychological toll on it’s victims. 85% of the population between 12 and 25 are plagued with mild to moderate acne. With over 350,000 US residents seeking professional treatment for acne, it’s no wonder it’s turned into an infomercial driven business.

What causes acne? In brief:
1. Hormones
2. P Acnes Bacteria
3. Excess Sebum (oil) production
4. Hyperkeratinization (build up of dead skin)

For more information about acne click here.
Other causes can be anabolic steroid use and medications. While it’s difficult to control hormones (certain birth control pills seem to help some women), some of the other factors causing acne can be controlled. So in short, to relieve acne, a product must do the following:

1. Kill Bacteria
2. Control Oil production
3. Control Inflammation
4. Exfoliate dead skin cells

Enter the infomercial wars. Proactive versus Murad Acne Complex. Many opt for the quick fix. Step in Proactive. A 3 step program that relies heavily on 2.5% benzoyl peroxide as an antibacterial ingredient. However, many users are not familiar with the negative side effects of using a benzoyl peroxide product. This has been so much so that Murad even has an ad that stating “Proactive did NOT clear their skin�. Many have voiced their complaints online about their experience with Proactive and Murad.

So what is the difference between Murad Acne Complex and Proactive? Murad does not use Benzoyl Peroxide, but does contain glycolic acid (exfoliating agent) as does Proactive. Murad also contains salicylic acid (antibacterial) and retinol (exfoliants).

Has Proactive worked for you? Or are you a Murad believer? Which brand if any has helped with your acne?

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