Hot or Not Beauty

It seems theses days that mineral makeup is the latest and greatest in makeup trends. The last 12 months have seen all the major brands jumping on the band wagon, extolling the virtues of this ‘new and revolutionary’ product. So in the interest of getting to the heart of things, I’d like to take a look at exactly what is behind the hype, and take a look at mineral makeup from Jane Iredale; one of the original producers of mineral makeup, and some would argue still the best.

The basic premise of mineral makeup is that it is a natural product, produced from finely crushed minerals. This product started in the hey-day of the seventies and was held high for the organic qualities of being without chemicals, preservatives and artificial dyes found in many other formulations.

Mineral makeup was initially found to be of particular benefit to those with problematic skin, as this makeup contained none of the fragrances, dyes and other chemicals such as preservatives that are traditionally recognised to be irritants for sensitive skin. Jane Iredale mineral makeup was first introduced onto the market and gained acceptance for its anti inflammatory qualities, making it a great option for sufferers of skin conditions such as acne, rosacea and even for those with skin irritation following skin treatments such as dermabrasion and laser skin resurfacing.

Whilst I am fortunate that I haven’t these above conditions, I have found that the Jane Iredale range is a great option for a sheer coverage, that lets my naturally healthy skin look its best. The powders are silky, and I’ve found once applied they rarely need a touch up. Best of all these powders offer the same skin protections as more conventional products, including sun protecting up to SPF 20 and a barrier from pollutants.

The mineral makeup is great as it allows your skin to breathe and maintains a natural and healthy glow. One added bonus with this particular product is that it truly is water resistant, and this has been tested in an FDA approved laboratory. I found that even on a hot day the makeup stayed put more than other bases I have tried and there was little transference.

Be aware that applying the mineral makeup may require a small change in your routine. After cleansing and moisturizing, you are going to have to really let the moisturizer absorb. This means apply it and then do something else for a bit before you start to apply your mineral makeup base. Personally I dry my hair while I wait, but if you are used to sticking on your moisturizer and then putting your foundation straight on top, you will need to get yourself out of that habit.

Once you are ready then take the brush and apply the mineral makeup lightly and in even layers, brushing the powder onto your skin in even, downward strokes. The initial ‘Amazing Base Loose Powder’ is a great product. It comes in warm, neutral and cool base tones. Great for someone like myself whose skins throws a lot of orange tones with some formulas. This also means that there are formulations that are suited to a variety of skin tones and colors.

As with more conventional makeup this base is complemented by a pressed powder for any necessary touch-ups throughout the day. I’ve found that this makeup generally stays put, but the pressed powder is still a great portable option if you have a long day ahead of you. Using the Jane Iredale mineral makeup has proved a great option, I would recommend that if you have been procrastinating then its time to give it a go!

MAC’s Beauty Powders enjoy a great deal of popularity, it’s one of those items that accompanies a Color Collection, whether it being a Beauty Icon or something like Barbie Loves MAC and used to highlight and give a soft glow as a multi-purpose pressed powder kind of thing.

Due to its incredible rave by MAC fanatics and makeup consumers everywhere, they decided to toy with the idea of changing the formula and turning into a loose powder product.

Designed to sculpt and highlight the face for a highly sophisticated contrast look. Some of the shades can be used as a soft blush, we all know the lingo and how it works, but the question is: “Does it work?”.

MAC’s shimmered iridescent powders always had a problem for me, they weren’t daily wearable. Silver Dusk is a gorgeous iridescent loose powder but upon application leaves your skin with a sort of artificial metallic glow to it which many women shy away from and that is my concern with MAC’s Beauty Powders in Loose form, can they subtle enough for day-to-day wear? The fact that all the powders have gold or copper shimmer makes me just wonder. I prefer a pearl-like shimmer because it can become a lot more natural and flattering even if it doesn’t have that “BANG” effect but it can translate into day and night wear.

I do welcome back Studio Lights with a passion, it’s incredibly wearable and it can be subdued and the light reflecting properties can help make your dark circle less noticeable rather than tons of coverage that can crease and make you look bad.

It’s one of those collections that can translate into limited edition items becoming permanent or will they continue to be limited in order to boost sales whenever they pop-up?

Mineral Makeup has been one of the biggest hypes in makeup appearing in practically all brands and a very popular infomercial.

But what is it that makes mineral makeup so incredibly popular and is it truly for every skin type?

Mineral makeup has been around since the seventies, but only recently has it stepped into the spotlight.

Part of mineral makeup’s ever growing popularity is that it claims to be made from all natural ingredients which are actually beneficial to the skin due to their lack of fillers, preservatives, chemicals, artificial coloring and so on and so forth. Mineral makeup also “revolutionized” makeup application with its uncomplicated buffing application with soft stippling movements allowing you to control the desired amount of coverage from sheer to full and always remaining natural and soft-looking.

Also, mineral makeup gives a glowy/dewy finish to the skin with its pearl finish and brings radiance to your face, however as with all makeup that have this finish it’s not advisable for those with oily skin. As your sebaceous glands work throughout the day, the oil will turn glow into greasy making you shine like never before in the worst possible way.

Also part of its popularity is the fact that most of these products have SPF, although most of them have 15SPF which I don’t believe it’s enough, specially if you’re exposed to the sun all day. So do yourself a favor and wear sun protection underneath, even though bareMinerals having the Cancer’s Foundation seal of recommendation, dermatologists advise you to wear additional protection.

Mineral makeup’s claims to being therapeutic to the skin are, in my opinion, more a marketing tool than anything else, while it’s true that titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide (used for SPF) have anti-inflammatory properties, they’re common to most products of makeup with SPF, specially in powder form.

When MAC Cosmetics made their Natural Mineralize Skinfinish collection permanent items, fans throughout the world were ecstatic and I joined the club purchasing it in Light and trying it out to see what all the hype was about. I was less than satisfied with the results, while it gave me a natural glowy sort of looked it took little more than an hour to turn me into greasevile and today I use on glowing brides as a highliter (as long as they don’t have really oily skin) and am quite pleased with the results.

Also, I’ve noticed that with most mineral makeup when applied to ethnic skin tones makes them either ashy or muddy, so I don’t think there’s all that choice or that the shades are THAT universal.

Sadly, mineral makeup hasn’t reached Holy Grail status for me and the only item that leaves me curious is Laura Mercier’s and I’ll probably be disappointed with it too.

One cannot deny the growing popularity and the constant growth of its legion of fans, I stay however on the nay sayer side waiting for further development or is this a trend that will slowly die in the coming years?

Welcome back to part two of makeup for weddings (when I say weddings, it can apply to any sort of special event or cerimony that demands that you look your best and usually will have you photographed or videotaped for posterity), when we review the best type of makeup products to use.

First and foremost, a primer is mandatory! You want to ensure that your makeup holds all day long with the least bit of touching up necessary that will make you look always fabulous and prevent the “Oh dear, is it six AM already?” look.

Here’s a couple of options that (to me) have always been bullet proof:

Make Up For Ever’s Corrective Make Up Base - Available in several shades to correct skin discoloration/rosacea
Make Up For Ever’s All-Mat - Formulated for oily Skin and to ensure a matte look throughout the day.
Smashbox’s Photo Finish Foundation Primer - Also available in light, color corrector and anti-aging versions to suit your skin’s needs.
Laura Mercier’s Foundation Primer - Regular or Oil-Free

Blot the skin with a soft tissue to remove excess product (if needed) and follow with your usual makeup to even out the complexion. As always, regarding dark circle concealers opt for moisturizing formulas that avoid creasing and don’t enhance whatever lines you might have in that area like:

Estee Lauder’s Re-Nutriv Duo Concealer
Chanel’s Vitalumiere Creme Concealer
Dior’s Anticerne Perfecteur Concealer
Laura Mercier’s Secret Concealer

Where foundation is concerned, although we like to appear as natural as possible, more damaged skin (either sun damage or scarring) will require foundation with deeper coverage, also if you have oily skin avoid shimmery/dewy types of foundations, as the day progresses it will make you look greasy and that’s a definite no-no. Also, avoid shimmery powder and highlighters if you have uneven skin in terms of texture, the shimmer will atract light and make painfully obvious whatever you’re trying to conceal.

If it’s a afternoon/evening wedding, prefer matte or semi-matte foundation formulas so that the flash won’t reflect and wash out your complexion and avoid foundations with SPF, specially Titanium Dioxide. Opt for SPF in your primer or day cream.

Laura Mercier’s Tinted Moisturizer (sheer coverage with a fresh glowy finish) - For those who need sheer coverage and slight adjustment to their complexion, this is a consumer and artist favourite.
Make Up For Ever’s Face & Body Foundation (gel type, all skin types, dewy) - Sheer to Medium Coverage, water resistant and can be used on body
Make Up For Ever’s Lift Foundation (fluid, with powder for deeper in formula for deeper coverage, semi-matte) - Formulated for mature/dry skin with medium to full coverage.
Make Up For Ever’s Mat-Velvet + (Fluid, combination/oily skin) - Photographs gorgeously and medium to full.
Dior’s Diorskin Air Flash - (Spray Formula, matte finish) - Velvet finish with a lightweight formula

Use loose powder to set your foundation and to ensure a flawless application of other products that will follow, apply with a velvet puff for more coverage or a brush for a more natural finish.

MAC’s Loose Blot Powder - For oil-control and makeup hold, specially for combination/oily skin.
Make Up For Ever’s Super Matte Loose Powder - Impecable hold and extraordinary finish
Chanel’s Le Poudre Universel Libre - A gentle loose powder for more sensitive skin
Dior’s Diorskin Poudre Libre - Gentle loose powder completely oil-free

If your under-eye area has a lot of fine lines, avoid using loose powder in that area so you won’t accentuate them even further, also avoid heavy pigmented powders in that area it won’t darken the area that you’re trying to lighten.

Next follows the application of color products to the face…

Being still in August, one thinks that it’s still time to look shimmery, bronzed and glistening with sun, the Fall look is looming in fashion magazines everywhere, so, here go a few tips for this years overall Fall options.

Superb polished skin finished with powder, matte is in.

Defined eyeliner application, preferably liquid eyeliner.

Bold, well defined lips as well as full and bold brows.

Highlighters continue highly popular, applied along the nose bridge, over cheekbones and everywhere you would like to enhance areas of your face.

Softer cheek colors in shades that slightly evoke a healthy flush, pinks, peaches and light tones for a hint of healthy glow, but never emulating a Summer complexion or exaggeration.

Smoky eyes and bewitching gazes are also a part of the season (considering by my recent reviews, well duh) and one of MAC’s Fall lineups will include the ever so classic contrast dark eyes/soft lips or vice versa.

Frankly, I am more of a Fall/Winter person than a Summer one, I like the look of polished skin, well groomed lips and most choices that are in this season’s look. One thing is for sure, sweet and girly as well as “just-woke-up-with-makeup-on-from-last-night” are definite no-nos, this season calls for being polished and picture perfect, no matter how casual you are.

Enjoy the Fall, I know I will.

A compact of pressed powder is one of the most iconic items in makeup, the expression “to powder one’s nose” or similar are ages old and in some cases like Edo Period Japan used as code words for geisha and oiran and we always associate a pressed powder with a touch of elegance and sophistication, it comes very hand for “product placement” in movies or tv series, the one that comes to mind is Sonia Braga in “Alias” with a MAC compact checking her makeup.

Estee Lauder is also known for its collectible compacts, Chantecaille will on occasion create special edition compacts (ouch, wallet), it is probably one of the most used makeup items when creating limited edition items.

Loose powder has the glamour of a beautiful package and a luxurious powder puff softly by a vanity or armoire.

Powder can be used for two goals:

Slightly evening out your skin tone and still keeping your look natural and created the illusion of smaller pores, it also reduces excess shine in the T-Zone or other areas.

Setting foundation and concealer (specially in fluid/cream formulations) keeping them “stable” and preventing them to migrate to other areas on your face.

Preferably, loose powder is applied to set the face makeup and ensure a proper blush and pressed powder application making color and pigment application a lot easier because the foundation or skin’s natural oils don’t adhere to the powder product that is being put on top.

Pressed powder on the other hand is preferably used in a shade closest to your skin tone as an alternative to foundation or for touch ups to reduce the shine. It can be also used in darker shades than skin tone to contour and reshape the face. While some makeup artists (like Kevyn Aucoin) would regularly use contouring techniques to beautify the face, others like Bobbi Brown avoid contouring altogether believing that it makes the woman (or man) look unnatural. In this case, the lighter shade to enhance areas like the nose bridge can be of a more pearly finish to attract light and the darker shade is matte to create a shadow effect.

In my opinion, if I decide to contour it’s in evening makeup where light is more forgiving and you can get away with it more easily.

Both loose and pressed powders can be matte, pearly or iridescent (be careful with shimmer finish powders, some are too glittery and look weird and almost circus like) and achieve a wide variety of looks.

Since I’m prone to an oily complexion, I will wear MAC’s Blot Powder in pressed format during most of the year and will use Chanel Le Poudre Universel Compacte at the peak of winter.

The usage of powder requires some extra care with your skin, as powder will absorb sebum and oil and residual moisture, if you don’t exfoliate on a regular basis you might end up with dry patches and flaky skin that isn’t all that flattering, so remember to exfoliate if you like to apply powder in your face.

Powder can be applied with a powder puff or a large brush, a puff ensures a higher coverage of product and a more matte finish. Using a brush allows a more sheer application resulting in a more natural look. If you use a powder puff, then slightly sweep with your powder brush to remove excess product.

Loose powder can also be used with a large eyeshadow brush as a “safety net” under the eyes to catch falling eyeshadow or mascara, specially very dark colors that can stain your under eye area and make you look like you’ve been hit.

For more mature skin, avoid very dry matte powders as they will make your skin appear very dry and emphasize fine lines, specially under the eye, so it’s best to avoid powder in this area unless absolutely necessary or opt for a more “moisturizing” formulation.

One of the biggest myths is that translucent powders are suitable for every complexion and I disagree, they work for light to medium complexions, but in deeper skin tones it will end up making the complexion look ashy or dull and you require a certain amount of pigment to make sure the color doesn’t change. Other brands will always have yellow tones in their powders to maintain the looks natural and balanced.

While some resist to the application of powder, I believe it to be essential to ensure a proper blush and eyeshadow application and there’s always a pressed powder compact in my backpack.