Hot or Not Beauty

If there’s something I love is an exfoliating scrub. So I’ll try them all out, sometimes the consequences are dire. One more step into desperately having perfect skin even if celebrities‘ skin is not that perfect most of the time.

There was a time when I really wanted to like the MAC Skincare line, I liked the minimalistic look and packaging, didn’t think the prices were outrageous and I really wanted to give it a go. My last purchase was the Microfine Refinisher, I really wanted to like it, it just seemed perfect for me and my regular MAC Make Up Artist raved so much about it that I decided I would try it after all.

Now again this was one of those things that I really wanted to work, don’t ask me why because some of the things that go through my mind don’t necessarily have to make any sense at all.

So I brought it home and although after usage it did leave my skin feeling quite smooth and soft, so I thought to myself that I had found new favorite product. However, the following day tragedy occurred, my forehead became a road map with hard bumps and extremely uneven and rough and also seemed to react a lot more to any kind of makeup product I applied on top.

I have yet to learn that I shouldn’t buy things for their popularity and ask for samples whenever I’m going to try something new, it would certainly make my cosmetics hunt a lot more enjoyable and less expendable. It’s just another one of those products that lies in my “You want it, you got it” bag.

Relive my frustration with agressive skincare here.

For no reason whatsoever I constantly change cleansers, probably because I like the different textures and tried all sorts. However we have those products that we keep repurchasing (this one I constantly repurchase because my mother loves it as well) because we like them and they work.

Chanel’s intensive Eye Make Up remover is a biphasic remover that is incredibly gentle and it’s my favorite to dissolve waterproof mascara and stubborn eyeshadow in a very comfortable way. Although my mother disapproves how much I spend on makeup, this is one item she cannot live without. If you have sensitive lids, give Chanel’s eye makeup remover a try.

Whenever I have the chance, I prefer to read multiple comments from other consumers in order to get a general idea of how the product performs and whether or not I should give it a go. True that sometimes the shopper’s impulse is so overwhelming that I ignore the occasional bad review and end up purchasing it (usually regretting it later).

Having sensitive/reactive skin, I can’t wear all makeup brands like I would like. However sometimes when I’m reading other people’s reviews or reactions I’ll notice that many of them blame the product for performing way less than it should when most of the times they’re either not using the product correctly or they’re not removing it adequately.

In our fast paced lives, makeup remover wipes can by a genuine life saver, allowing to removing and go without the added fuss of a bottled cleanser or one that needs rinsing. But can they be applied in all situations? Sadly, no.

Longwear and waterproof makeup aren’t diluted (or removed) with most of the wipes in the market (if not all), yes your face looks clean (overall) but has the foundation been removed thoroughly from your skin? And why do you have a black cloud around your eyes? Ineffective makeup removal results in clogged pores and breakouts, but what do many do? Blame the product. Now I’m not saying that everyone is like that and that all products don’t cause break-outs. But here are a few tips just in case.

Get products that are appropriate for your skin type, if you have dry skin: don’t get a powder foundation like Studio Fix, it will accentuate your flaky skin (if you have it) or worsen the most sensitive areas on your face.

Please make sure you remove all products at the end of the day with the appropriate cleanser and exfoliate once or twice a week to make sure you remove dead skin cells and prevent pore clogging.

Read the product’s ingredient list, if there are certain products that break you out then cross-check and see if there isn’t a certain ingredient that you’re allergic. While it’s true that cosmetics are tested and try to be non-comedogenic, not all skins are the same and your body chemistry might react differently to a certain kind of ingredient like Titanium Dioxide which is commonly used as a physical sunblock on primers and foundations.

Stay alert, research before you shop to make sure you’ll make the most of what the beauty industry has to offer.

After six months of Chanel’s purity line, it was time to completely re-buy my skincare line (it’s amazing how cleanser, toner and moisturizer practically end simultaneously), however my budget didn’t allow to go anywhere NEAR Chanel this month and I decided to go on to something more affordable.

After suffering horrors with Vichy’s Normaderm line and feeling like I washing my face with cooking oil with Caudalie, I was scared of actually trying another Pharmacy brand, but after a very good experience with a Galénic eye cream, I decided to give it a try.

After a week trying, I’ve had better results with it than with Chanel, my skin feels less oily and some blemishes started to disappear without a trace. Having a couple of uneven pigmented spots I decided to add to my regimen the lightening serum.

One of the things I love about it is that the astringent lotion doesn’t have alcohol and has an incredible feel on your skin. The gel is incredibly light does leave a mattifying effect, I’ve also used it in lieu of a primer for a slight brush of compact powder foundation and have been very happy with the result.

The 3 in 1 Mask is also very nice and performed graciously under pressure, so I guess Galénic is going to be a part of my skin regimen for the upcoming months and if it behaves like it has so far, the only regret I’ll have is not having tried it sooner.

Combined, I have products of the Ombelia, Cauterets and Pur lines (Ombelia is focused on skin lightening and preventing hyper-pigmentation, Cauterets caters to oily skin and Pur is their cleanser and makeup removers)

Although Galénic isn’t drugstore cheap, it’s conveniently affordable and I’ll definitely be looking into some other of their products in the future.

Almost all great cosmetic brands have specially created cosmetic lines that are specific to the Asian Market, like Lancome’s Blanc Expert, Shiseido with Lucent or Superieure, Helena Rubinstein, MAC with their whitening line recently brought to the West as Lightful, Clinique also has a specific whitening line called Derma-White and has paved its way to the Western market just to name a few.

Around the time of Lightful’s release some became infuriated viewing it as just another euphemism for racism accusing the cosmetics company of being racist feeling that the product line was intended to make ethnic darker skin white, which is completely far from the truth.

So what are whitening products and what are they aimed at?

Mostly, what these products do is block or reduce melanin production by inhibiting the production of tyrosinase and breaking down the production of melanin, thus it doesn’t bleach the skin like many would think, but it just stops the skin from producing the substance that darkens the skin’s pigmentation.

Amongst the chemicals used in these products the more recurrent are hydroquinone (used topically), other well known alternatives to hydroquinone (banned in France for fear of cancer risk) are Vitamin C and Alpha Hydroxy acids (such as lactic and glycolic acids) and are present in many of today’s cosmetics either because they’re high in anti-oxidants (Vitamin C) or are chemical exfoliants that help shed older layers of skin that usually can cause blockage and blemishes.

Next, misconceptions and applications of today’s whitening cosmetics, if you chose to use them.

Although we’re quite far from the times where aristocracy would use white lead to create a ghostly white complexion, such products not only would cause lead poisoning also had arsenic in their complexion.

One of the most iconic would probably be Queen Elizabeth I, but white complexion was also incredibly popular in the court of Fashion Queen Marie Antoinette.

It was common belief that whiter complexions were a sign of nobility, mostly it meant that you just didn’t have to work outside in the sun. Also, it was believed that a paler complexion would blur wrinkles and signs of aging far easily, one of the reasons why Elizabeth I’s well known white lead look was called “The Mask of Youth”.

However in the West, times have changed and beaches are filled with Sun God worshipers for that ideal bronze gleam on their skin that creates an all out healthy glow. Asian women on the other hand try their hardest to achieve a porcelain tone to their skin.

The basic belief was the same, paler complexions were a sign of being noble and protected from the sun’s rays and to this day geisha wear white foundation products to become beauty at its most iconic.

So what do today’s cosmetics offer and what can they truly accomplish?

To be continued.

One of my biggest concerns in what regards skin care is eye cream, being that it’s the most delicate area in your skin and the one that starts to age first. If you think about and you’re trying to guess someone’s age, your attention will be drawn towards the eye area.

I think that a good eye cream is the one that you should invest on. A good eye cream is used sparingly and will usually last for at least half a year. You should apply it on the corner of the eye area and pat it along with your fourth finger towards the inner part of your eye.

My personal favorite is Chanel’s Precision Rectifiance Intense Eye Cream, a very rich and moisturizing cream that works from the moment you apply it. Although usually I’m quite skeptic about the promises made by cosmetic companies when they seem over the top, Chanel’s Rectifiance truly delivers, smother re-textured eye area and it evens act on your dark circles making them less evident. Although it’s rather pricey at $70 a pot, if you think about it, it’s less than 40 cents a day for unquestionable results.

It’s my favourite primer before I apply concealer and works wonderfully with Chanel’s Vitalumiere cream concealer or Dior Anticerne Perfecteur ensuring stability and durability for your concealer all day long.

I have to confess that sometimes I’m a sucker for punishment.

For years now I have tried all sorts of Clinique moisturizers and always give up on them. For some reason they just don’t work and end up breaking me out, so I’ve stayed away from them for quite a while until I was dreadfully tempted by a sample.

Hopping on the anti-oxidant bandwagon, Clinique released its “Continuous Rescue Antioxidant Moisturizer” that not only moisturizes but has time-released anti-oxidants to fight free radical actions and act on fines lines and signs of aging.

Having less than gracious experiences with Clinique moisturizers, although I was curious, I managed to keep myself at bay. When given a sample, I thought to myself “Why not?” if it works it would be a lot cheaper than the line I’m currently using.

The result? The next morning my poor forehead was an abuse victim of my experimentation and I ended up covering up the damage and returning to my regular skincare routine.
At least I gave myself a pat in the back for not buying it.

Sorry Clinique, I guess I’ll keep eating fruits and veggies.

Dear Ms. Hot or Not Beauty –

I’m an African American woman in my 30’s and I have never worn sunscreen. I keep hearing that it’s important. But I also have heard that dark skin has a natural sun protection built in. What do you recommend?
Thanks
C
Dearest C –

Thanks so much for first of all reading and secondly for inquiring about such an important subject matter. The short answer is YES! No matter what your skin color, you should be wearing an SPF daily. While darker skins typically do not burn as quickly as their fair counterparts, constant sun exposure can lead to a host of skin care ills down the road. Hyperpigmentation being a primary offender. Many women of color in their 30’s and above wonder why suddenly they have outbreaks of dark spots afflicting thier once even complexions. Well, it’s due to all that casual sun exposure over the years.

First let’s learn how an SPF works.
Just as a screen filters light, a sunscreen filters the sun’s rays. The ingredients in sunscreen absorb ultraviolet (UV) radiation by forming a barrier on the skin’s surface. Energy from sunlight is converted to heat, dissipating harmlessly. No sunscreen can shield the sun 100%, so it’s important if you want full protection to wear long sleeves, big hats, sunglasses — the works!

How do you know how much to use?
First you have to calculate how fast you burn. If it takes you 10 minutes to burn, then you will be protected for 150 minutes with and SPF of 15 or 300 minutes with an SPF of 30. You multiply the time it takes you to burn (10 minutes) by the amount of SPF in your sunscreen. If you are sweating or in and out of water, it’s important to reapply frequently to keep protected.

According to the American Melanoma Foundation:

What is an SPF?
The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) displayed on the sunscreen label ranges from 2 to as high as 50 and refers to the product’s ability to screen or block out the sun’s harmful rays. For example, if you use a sunscreen with an SPF 15, you can be in the sun 15 times longer that you can without sunscreen before burning. Consumers need to be aware that SPF protection does not increase proportionally with an increased SPF number. While an SPF of 2 will absorb 50% of ultraviolet radiation, an SPF of 15 absorbs 93% and an SPF of 34 absorbs 97%.

It is also important to have a combination of chemical sunscreens in your product. Some protect from UVB rays (burn) and others from UVA (aging).

For darker skins, I recommend chemical sunscreens. When formulated correctly, these will melt into the skin without leaving an ashy, purply hued residue as does titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. Look for ingredients like Avobenzone [butyl-methyoxydibenzoylmethane; Parsol 1789],
Octinoxate and Octisalate. If you do use a physical sunscreen such as zinc or titanium dioxide, look for a micelized version.

Some great sunscreens to check out are made by Peter Thomas Roth, Cellex C, Murad, Skin Ceuticals and MD Formulations. They can all be found at DermaDoctor.

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I may be a snob when it comes to beauty producuts, but I also recognize theres a time to splurge and a time to skimp. You don’t always need a $25 mascara to do the job, or a $65 cleanser to take your makeup off. With that said, I’m as much a shop-a-holic at my friendly neighborhood drugstore as I am at Sephora or Nordstrom.

These are my favorite finds:

1. Mascara — I’ve worn them all- Chanel, Lancome, Bourjois, Blinc, Kevin Aucoin, I could go on and on. I love mascara. I love big huge eyelashes that are slightly on the side of trashy. Loreal Voluminous Mascara gives me all the oomph of a Dior Show mascara without the price tag. Try the newest black, Carbon. Its blacker than black. Walgreens frequently has a buy one get one free, and that’s when I stock up. $6.99

2. Makeup Cleansing Wipes – I travel for work, and there are all stiff controls as to how much liquid you can carry on board airplanes. I love Neutrogena Make-Up Remover Cleansing Towelettes. They remove even the most stubborn makeup. $6.49

3. Scrub– I have written about my exfoliating addiction. I love a good scrub. St Ives Swiss Formula Medicated Apricot Scrub with Salicylic Acid is an excellent scrub. Its great for acne prone skin and as an anti-aging exfoliant as well. $3.99

4. Facial Cleansing Pads – When I’m not on the road, I use Perfection Facial Cleansing Pads for cleansing my skin and removing makeup. They are 100% cotton, made in France and lint free. Much bigger than a cotton round and they save getting makeup on your wash cloths! $2.99 for 85.

5. False Eyelashes – I use plenty of these in my work and need to replenish my kit often. I could go to MAC and splurge, but why when I can get them for $3.49 a pair in assorted styles. Andrea is the brand and they work just as well as the big dog brands.

6. Body Lotion – Keri Age Defy & Protect Moisture Therapy. This body lotion contains an SPF 15 plus alpha hydroxy acids. So you get sun protection and anti-aging benefits in one. Helps to even skin tone and tame those awful bumps on the backs of arms and thighs. Keeps feet smooth and sandal weather perfect. $7.19 for 15 oz. Sure beats $40 and up for treatment lotions that don’t work half as well.

7. Hair Gel – I really can’t understand spending an arm and a leg on hair gel. I get the cheapest stuff on the shelf. I love Citre Shine. It’s not too hard and doesn’t flake. Around $3 for a 20 oz bottle.

8. Overall makeup brand – Physicians Forumla. This line has it all. From fabulous bronzers to awesome eye shadow quads that I love. Prices are reasonable and the ingredients are quality. They have innovative products that work like CoverToxTen50™ Wrinkle Therapy Concealer

10 minutes = Over 50% reduction in appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
10 hours = Up to 52% visible dark circle reduction.
10 days = 77% visible dark circle reduction.

So that’s it. The best of my drugstore basket. Of course there is more, but my lips are sealed.

Bargain beauty buys — Hot!

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Spring and summer present a whole new look for makeup. It’s time to lighten up and show fresh beautiful skin. If you don’t have fresh beautiful skin, as so few of us over the age of 5 years old do, we have to fake it. Ordinarily we use foundation to conceal and in some cases mask an imperfect complexion. However, you may want to try what may be called the best of a foundation and moisturizer mixed in one – a tinted moisturizer. Tinted moisturizers present a wonderful to traditional foundation. They work double duty by providing subtle coverage to even out skin tone, and give a boost to moisturizer. I don’t recommend alleviating moisturizer in lieu of a tinted moisturizer, but instead to use a lighter version of your favorite moistsurizer or to use it a little more sparingly.

For a beautiful “natural” finish to skin, apply your tinted moisturizer and dust skin with a loose powder. You will look fresh and as if you aren’t really wearing makeup. Just one more way to keep up with those girls with flawless skin. But we won’t tell…

My top 5 tinted moisturizers:

1. Laura Mercier Tinted MoisturizerThis has got to be the Grand Dame of tinted Moisturizers.

This sheer, lightweight moisturizer contains a protective SPF 20 sunscreen and a hint of color that can be used in place of foundation for a natural finish that adds a healthy glow to your complexion. Available in 7 colors for fair to deep skin tones. $40.

2. Stila Sheer Color Tinted Moisturizer SPF 15
My second choice in the tinted moisturizer category. Want even-looking skin, but aren’t willing to take the foundation plunge? This moisturizer is packed with sun protection and just enough color to even skin tone. The light, hydrating formula is ideal for all skin types and comes in natural, see-through shades. Application is a cinch and the coverage is long lasting, leaving you with a perfect finish every time.
Size: 1.7 oz 10 shades, $30

3. Lorac ProtecTINT™ SPF 30 - Oil-Free Tinted Moisturizer
My new favorite. With an SPF 30 that doesn’t ash out on darker skins.A lightweight, oil-free, sheer tinted moisturizer that’s good for all skin types - especially sensitive skin.
protecTINT™ SPF 30 Tinted Moisturizer gives skin a natural, healthy glow, while providing protection from the harmful effects of the sun. Its unique formula instantly evens out your complexion and provides a youthful, smooth, no-makeup look and feel and never looks obvious, even close up!
Size: 1.3 oz 5 Shades, $30.

4. Dr. Brandt Tinted Daily UV Protection SPF 30 - Face I love Dr. Brandt’s tinted moisturizer for it’s slight shimmer. Tinted daily UV protection with SPF 30 and Active Renewal Shield is the minimum SPF recommended by Dr. Brandt. Absorbs quickly, without shine. 1.7 oz., $30.

5. Cosmedicine Honest Face Skin Tint & Treatment SPF 20
A lightweight, all-in-one face finisher and skin treatment with antioxidants and UVA/UVB, SPF 20 sunscreens.Creates a natural, healthy-looking finish with no telltale lines and delivers the benefits of essential moisture, broad-spectrum sunscreen protection, and potent antioxidants with skin-refining color.

Tinted moisturizers — HOT!

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A few days ago I begged for questions for my new column, Ask Ms. Hot or Not. And I got plenty of questions to answer. The first one off the press was from Erin who wrote:

Dear Ms. Hot or Not:
I would love to know how to get rid of bumps or razor burn on your bikini area. Are there any good razors or products to use to try to prevent them all together?

It’s warming up all over and it’s almost time for those leg baring, high cut, show-it-all bikinis. And for those who dare to bare, being hair free is of most importance. For women who wear bikinis there is always the question of wax or shave. Brazilian and Playboy style waxings can leave the bikini area sensitive and prone to infection if not properly treated after waxing. While waxing leaves skin stubble free and eliminates the need to remove hair again for up to six weeks, shaving is a whole new can of worms.

Improper shaving can leave skin irritated and prone to having ingrown hairs. This is often the condition that that is evident on the surface of the skin that we catagorize as bikini bumps. Using the right shaving method is one way to cut down on the possibility of bumps.

How to Shave:
Start by getting pubic hair and skin thoroughly saturated with a shaving cream. Soap will not do the trick. Try a product that’s made for men like Jack Black Beard Lube which moisturizes the hair and skin. This helps to soften the hair and makes shaving easier. First, be sure to adequately wet the skin and the bikini hair. Since pubic hair is coarser than facial hair, this is an important step. If you are using a disposable razor, choose one that is for sensitive skin. At times, too close leave hair too far below the surface and it may create a bump if proper exfoliation doesn’t occur between shaves. (more about exfoliation to follow) Gillette Mach 3 razor is my razor of choice for clean close shaves. With a disposable or with a cartridge type head, replace after each shave.

When you begin to shave, pull the skin tight with your non-shaving hand. Then shave in upward strokes. Make sure there is adequate shaving cream on the hair and skin before each stroke. Without this protection, you’re likely to get red and bumpy after you shave.

Some experts recommend rubbing an ice cube over the shaved bikini area to reduce redness and discomfort. A pure Aloe Vera Gel is ideal for using after shaving to conquer irritation. Also over the counter hydrocortisone creams are helpful. Some post-shave products made up of mainly rubbing alcohol can actually increase inflammation. So consider taking a Tylenol or Ibuprofen to reduce the amount of inflamation that may occur.

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I’m about to hit the big 50 in 2 months, and I’m on a mission to keep my skin FIRM. When I see saggy skin, it just makes me so sad. I’m not going under the knife (for my face at least), so I’m at the mercy of skin care technology to keep me in shape. Granted, I look nowhere near my 49 years young. I’m consistently told that I look like I’m in my 30’s. I attribute that to my great genes and diligence with wearing sunscreen and using good skin care products.

However, I have been on a search for a new TIGHTENING and FIRMING serum. I think I found it. Dr. Brandt Skincare Laser Lightening Serum What it is:
Formulated with QuSome, this unique system encapsulates potent ingredients delivering them to the deeper layers of skin.

What it is formulated to do:
Instantly tightens and firms skin by mimicking the action of a laser treatment, producing effective results. It protects the skin against further free-radical damage, and improves the overall condition of the skin.

I’ll be back in 30 days to revisit this product and give you an update. Hopefully I’ll be as tight as Joan Rivers without the lift.

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I received a beautiful package of body products to try out form Maryam’s Soap Nook. Well, I thought they might be cheesy, since they weren’t from a major manufacturer. But I had to think again about my snobby attitude. The best products are born in someone’s kitchen or garage or bathroom. So, I got over my own arrogance and started dipping and smelling these lovely goodies.

My favorite from the group is the Shea Butter & Dead Sea Salt Glow Scrub in Peppermint Sea. I’m an exfoliating junkie. I have written about my love of the scrub before. Well, this scrub is just about perfect. The ingredients are top notch: Dead sea salts, shea butter, essential oils, camellia oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, vegetable glycerin and vitamin E,peppermint, grapefruit, jasmine, juniper and lemon.

The scrub melted into my skin and wasn’t at all rough as some that I have used. It rinsed clean and left my skin completely moist. My skin was soft as a baby’s behind. I was extremely touchable after using this scrub! I really didn’t have need for body lotion afterward. The scent is a little heavy for me because I like to wear perfume. I will just resolve that by using the scrub before bed!

TO USE: Stand in the tub or shower and massage the scrub onto your skin, body and hands only
(avoid face). Do not use on sunburned skin, or just shaved skin. If you must shave, exfoliate first. As
with all salts, do not rub into or onto a wound or open skin, as it will sting.

Maryam’s body scrubs are available in 15 scents and are so reasonably priced. $15 for an 8 ounce jar OR $25 for a 16 ounce jar. I’ve used scrubs that cost a fortune and don’t work nearly as well, so check her out. In addition to the scrubs, Maryam has gorgeous handmade soaps, Shea Butter Body Butters and more delicious body products. I’ll defintely be writing more about her awesome products.

Glowing skin from Maryam’s Salt Scrub — HOT!

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Were you a sun worshipper when you were younger? Has your skin rebelled and produced an abundance of “age” or “sun” spots? Or, are you a women of color with uneven skin tone? Some parts of your skin lighter, some darker? Have you entered menopause, only to find that your skin has taken on an uneven tone? Have you been a victim of acne, only to find that you have residual marks from the inflammation of previous breakouts. Does a day in the sun increase your freckle count? Are your hormones out of control due to menopause, pregnancy or taking the pill and you see the evidence of excessive pigment on your face? All of these different scenarios are classic signs of hyperpigmentation.

What is hyperpigmentation? Well, let’s just breakdown the word. Hyper — excessive, abuandance. Pigmentation (pigment) –coloring or melanin.
According to Wikipedia:
In dermatology, hyperpigmentation is the darkening of an area of skin or nails caused by increased melanin. Hyperpigmentation may be caused by sun damage, inflammation from acne, or other skin injuries.[1] People with darker asian, east indian, middle eastern, hispanic, or african skin tones are also more prone to hyperpigmentation especially if they have excess sun exposure . It is also associated with a number of diseases or conditions,

Of course, professional skin care from a Dermatologist or an Aesthetician is the best way to improve hyperpigmentation. But, if you have to do it yourself, what steps should you take? What products can you safely use to improve the overall tone of your skin? We aren’t talking Michael Jackson lightening, but returning your skin to it’s natural tone.
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