Hot or Not Beauty

Dear Ms. Hot or Not Beauty –

I’m an African American woman in my 30’s and I have never worn sunscreen. I keep hearing that it’s important. But I also have heard that dark skin has a natural sun protection built in. What do you recommend?
Thanks
C
Dearest C –

Thanks so much for first of all reading and secondly for inquiring about such an important subject matter. The short answer is YES! No matter what your skin color, you should be wearing an SPF daily. While darker skins typically do not burn as quickly as their fair counterparts, constant sun exposure can lead to a host of skin care ills down the road. Hyperpigmentation being a primary offender. Many women of color in their 30’s and above wonder why suddenly they have outbreaks of dark spots afflicting thier once even complexions. Well, it’s due to all that casual sun exposure over the years.

First let’s learn how an SPF works.
Just as a screen filters light, a sunscreen filters the sun’s rays. The ingredients in sunscreen absorb ultraviolet (UV) radiation by forming a barrier on the skin’s surface. Energy from sunlight is converted to heat, dissipating harmlessly. No sunscreen can shield the sun 100%, so it’s important if you want full protection to wear long sleeves, big hats, sunglasses — the works!

How do you know how much to use?
First you have to calculate how fast you burn. If it takes you 10 minutes to burn, then you will be protected for 150 minutes with and SPF of 15 or 300 minutes with an SPF of 30. You multiply the time it takes you to burn (10 minutes) by the amount of SPF in your sunscreen. If you are sweating or in and out of water, it’s important to reapply frequently to keep protected.

According to the American Melanoma Foundation:

What is an SPF?
The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) displayed on the sunscreen label ranges from 2 to as high as 50 and refers to the product’s ability to screen or block out the sun’s harmful rays. For example, if you use a sunscreen with an SPF 15, you can be in the sun 15 times longer that you can without sunscreen before burning. Consumers need to be aware that SPF protection does not increase proportionally with an increased SPF number. While an SPF of 2 will absorb 50% of ultraviolet radiation, an SPF of 15 absorbs 93% and an SPF of 34 absorbs 97%.

It is also important to have a combination of chemical sunscreens in your product. Some protect from UVB rays (burn) and others from UVA (aging).

For darker skins, I recommend chemical sunscreens. When formulated correctly, these will melt into the skin without leaving an ashy, purply hued residue as does titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. Look for ingredients like Avobenzone [butyl-methyoxydibenzoylmethane; Parsol 1789],
Octinoxate and Octisalate. If you do use a physical sunscreen such as zinc or titanium dioxide, look for a micelized version.

Some great sunscreens to check out are made by Peter Thomas Roth, Cellex C, Murad, Skin Ceuticals and MD Formulations. They can all be found at DermaDoctor.

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A few days ago I begged for questions for my new column, Ask Ms. Hot or Not. And I got plenty of questions to answer. The first one off the press was from Erin who wrote:

Dear Ms. Hot or Not:
I would love to know how to get rid of bumps or razor burn on your bikini area. Are there any good razors or products to use to try to prevent them all together?

It’s warming up all over and it’s almost time for those leg baring, high cut, show-it-all bikinis. And for those who dare to bare, being hair free is of most importance. For women who wear bikinis there is always the question of wax or shave. Brazilian and Playboy style waxings can leave the bikini area sensitive and prone to infection if not properly treated after waxing. While waxing leaves skin stubble free and eliminates the need to remove hair again for up to six weeks, shaving is a whole new can of worms.

Improper shaving can leave skin irritated and prone to having ingrown hairs. This is often the condition that that is evident on the surface of the skin that we catagorize as bikini bumps. Using the right shaving method is one way to cut down on the possibility of bumps.

How to Shave:
Start by getting pubic hair and skin thoroughly saturated with a shaving cream. Soap will not do the trick. Try a product that’s made for men like Jack Black Beard Lube which moisturizes the hair and skin. This helps to soften the hair and makes shaving easier. First, be sure to adequately wet the skin and the bikini hair. Since pubic hair is coarser than facial hair, this is an important step. If you are using a disposable razor, choose one that is for sensitive skin. At times, too close leave hair too far below the surface and it may create a bump if proper exfoliation doesn’t occur between shaves. (more about exfoliation to follow) Gillette Mach 3 razor is my razor of choice for clean close shaves. With a disposable or with a cartridge type head, replace after each shave.

When you begin to shave, pull the skin tight with your non-shaving hand. Then shave in upward strokes. Make sure there is adequate shaving cream on the hair and skin before each stroke. Without this protection, you’re likely to get red and bumpy after you shave.

Some experts recommend rubbing an ice cube over the shaved bikini area to reduce redness and discomfort. A pure Aloe Vera Gel is ideal for using after shaving to conquer irritation. Also over the counter hydrocortisone creams are helpful. Some post-shave products made up of mainly rubbing alcohol can actually increase inflammation. So consider taking a Tylenol or Ibuprofen to reduce the amount of inflamation that may occur.

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Were you a sun worshipper when you were younger? Has your skin rebelled and produced an abundance of “age” or “sun” spots? Or, are you a women of color with uneven skin tone? Some parts of your skin lighter, some darker? Have you entered menopause, only to find that your skin has taken on an uneven tone? Have you been a victim of acne, only to find that you have residual marks from the inflammation of previous breakouts. Does a day in the sun increase your freckle count? Are your hormones out of control due to menopause, pregnancy or taking the pill and you see the evidence of excessive pigment on your face? All of these different scenarios are classic signs of hyperpigmentation.

What is hyperpigmentation? Well, let’s just breakdown the word. Hyper — excessive, abuandance. Pigmentation (pigment) –coloring or melanin.
According to Wikipedia:
In dermatology, hyperpigmentation is the darkening of an area of skin or nails caused by increased melanin. Hyperpigmentation may be caused by sun damage, inflammation from acne, or other skin injuries.[1] People with darker asian, east indian, middle eastern, hispanic, or african skin tones are also more prone to hyperpigmentation especially if they have excess sun exposure . It is also associated with a number of diseases or conditions,

Of course, professional skin care from a Dermatologist or an Aesthetician is the best way to improve hyperpigmentation. But, if you have to do it yourself, what steps should you take? What products can you safely use to improve the overall tone of your skin? We aren’t talking Michael Jackson lightening, but returning your skin to it’s natural tone.
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I’m an exfoliating junkie. I love to scrub. My day just isn’t complete with out scrubbing my skin raw with the latest and greatest on the exfoliation market. I’m expert on these skin care products. Not only am I a self absorbed makeup artist, but a licensed aesthetician as well. So that means that I know a thing or two about good skin care products. Now, not everyone should take the liberty to scrub until they feel the burn like I do. Really, the less is more philosphy is true here. I just don’t practice what I preach.

This is what you should know about exfoliators:
They come in manual and chemical forms. Manual exfoliators are scrubs — grains, granules, crushed seeds, polyethelyne balls and so on. Chemicals exfoliants are commonly alpha hydroxy or beta hydroxy acids, enzymes and retinols. There are a plethora of professional exfoliators which we will not get into at this time. I love, love, love AHA’s. I have been known to do a vigorous scrub and then a professional strength chemical exfoliant right after. Sure, I get red and it burns like the dickens, but the next day my skin looks like I just had a blissful evening…

Why you should scrub:
1. It removes dead skin cells.
2. It helps moisturizer penetrate the skin.
3. It’s an anti-ager for the skin, can diminish fine lines
4. Help give skin a glow

Scrubs to avoid:
Anything with big uneven particles. In particular the good ole crushed apricot seed or walnut seed. Forget all that harsh stuff. Now, there are scrubs that use a powder form or a very small particle form of those ingredients and they are perfectly fine. Always try to sample the product before you buy it. Run the scrub through your fingers. Does it feel rough? Don’t use it. The granules should be smooth and even.
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Sales of over the counter acne preparations exceed $100 million annually. Hundreds of millions more are spent on prescription treatments. Acne is a non life threatening disease, but nonetheless a disease that takes a psychological toll on it’s victims. 85% of the population between 12 and 25 are plagued with mild to moderate acne. With over 350,000 US residents seeking professional treatment for acne, it’s no wonder it’s turned into an infomercial driven business.

What causes acne?
In brief:
1. Hormones
2. P Acnes Bacteria
3. Excess Sebum (oil) production
4. Hyperkeratinization (build up of dead skin)

For more information about acne click here.

Other causes can be anabolic steroid use and medications. While it’s difficult to control hormones (certain birth control pills seem to help some women). So in short to for relief of acne the following must happen:

1. Kill Bacteria
2. Control Oil production
3. Control Inflammation
4. Exfoliate dead skin cells
Some brands such as Peter Thomas Roth rely on ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide, glycolic acid and salicylic acid to clear skin. Others like Naturopathica rely on botanicals for their healing powers. Sample skin care regimens:

Nautropathica:
Cleanse: Aloe Cleansing Gel
Tone: Lavender Hydrolat
Hydrate: Protective Moisture Cream (oil-free)
Spot Treatment: Moss Extract Blemish Remover
Lighten Acne Scars: Botanical Skin Brightener
Weekly Mask: Pore Refining Clay Mask

Peter Thomas Roth:
Cleanse: Medicated BPO 5% Acne Wash or for Beta Hydroxy 2% Acne Wash for extremely oily skin
Tone: Glycolic Acid Clarifying Tonic
Treat: AHA/BHA Acne Clearing Gel or for more serious breakouts 10% BPO with sulfur
Weekly Mask: Sulfur Cooling Mask

Tip: For a serious eruption that you need to deflate overnight, try this: Ice pimple for 5 minutes. Apply spot treatment. Cover spot treatment with a thick layer of mask. Leave on overnight. You should see a marked difference in your zit come morning!

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Who wants to get old? For that matter, who wants to look old? I sure as heck don’t. That’s why I have been slathering on moisturizer for a few years now. Since my female hormones decided to take a step back and my skin started drying out. Once oily, I’m now the poster child for dehydrated skin. Now, I probably can’t blame my hormones 100% because I do suck down a couple gallons of high octane coffee per day, but that’s my story and I’m sticking to it. (Coffee = dehydration)

I have gone through my share of moisturizers over the last few years and have some definite opinions on the great ones.

1. Peter Thomas Roth Moisturizing 24/7 Anti-Aging Cellular Repair – It’s got peptides, Glycolic Acid, Vitamins A,C & E, and just does it all.
2. Caudalie Radiance Day Fluid SPF 8 — The power of the vine for your face. Powerful anti-oxidants in a sheer cream. $62

3. Z Bigatti Re-Storation Skin Treatment –
The granddaddy of muli-use products. Treatment packed with all kinds of antioxidants with amazing moisturizing abilities. $155

4. Steven Victor MD Bio-Nutritive Luxury Cream $400
This is the ultimate dream cream. It has more stuff in it that you can enunciate correctly and packs a powerful punch with results in 30 days.

5. Ole Henrickson Express the Truth
This ultra hydrating rich texture creme is packed with nature’s most powerful antioxidants like ester C and African red tea to help to calm and soothe the skin as well as fight off environmental aggressors and free radical damage. $65

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